V4 with larger screen

Hi,
I am new here. Just downloaded Zynthian on a spare RPI3B+ and its great.
But, I would like to create a V4 version with a larger display. ?
My question now is, How do I connect the rotary controllers, when I do not use the standard display.

Regards,
Bert

No problem.

The display & encoder logic are completely separate and handled by the xwindows system…
You set the screen resolutions and the font size in the webconf…

This is one of my zynths

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Hi @BertB welcome,
for controllers, it depends on your tinkering skills:

Or another fully DIY way is to use a different microcontroller like this or similar.

Lots of great ideas, thank you all.
I use a waveshare 5 inch HDMI + GPIO display.
As far as I can see, it uses the SPI for the touch screen.

Yes you’re right.
This screen duplicate the occupied pins by thé headers. So the I2C interface is still accessible for wiring a mcp23017 port expander

What kind of sound interface are you using ?

I am currently using the headphone jack of the PI.
That is okay for now, but I am considering buying a proper interface.
In fact, I do like the V4.1, but the display is a bit too small.

@BertB,
I have a small project for the encoder board. I have boards in hand if you are interested. Send me a PM and we can work out the details.

I am currently desiging a board that is basically all in one board + audio routing for the hifiberry to fit a 5 inch capacitive dsi screen like this one

So far i’m still in the mud, designing the pcb and all that, and work has been busy lately so not much juice left in the brain after hours, but I do intend on having this working before summer.

The footprint and general volume would be almost the same as the other one i made, but this time the case is gonna be metal

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So many bright ideas here to discover.
Thank you all for sharing.

@wyleu / Chris -
Total n00b here - that pi-topCEED case – how’d you get the rotary controllers into it? Where’d you get them from? Did you use any of the Zynthian kit parts in the make? Would love to try my hand at a larger format Zynthian touchscreen and yours look great - would appreciate any insights you can provide.

Thanks a bunch -

By replacing the front panel acrylic panel with one I ordered from a bespoke supplier. Next time I will get them to cut the holes. It rests in the bottom slot but not the top slot so it can be taken out from the front. You cant’ realistically get encoders into the CED device as it stands…

The machine hasn’t received much love since my overall move to Pi4. It’s not a touchscreen which is a pity cos I think you are beginning to get to a size of touchscreen I think is useable !

The encoders were entirely wired to the i/o pins on the Pi. I didn’t use any zynthian components in this one, it was really the ability to breadboard against a Pi that made it all ttractive. I was mucking around with visual feedback on the zynth via RGB coloured encoders so it had a lot of stuff set up for that.
However if I was doing it again I’d use the Allinone board.
The difficulties of the construction of zynth devices boil down to two or three basic problems.

The Pi always needs to be near a corner of the case to get access t required sockets. This is often at odds with touchscreens that like to put them at the middle. Tends to limit things a bit.
If you include zynthian encoders and switches (and I think it’s a must) you then have the problem that your enclosure is required to carry the touch screen and then provide suitable panel space for encoders so you either drop your screen below the panel or carry the encoders and switches on a thin acryllic sheet beefed up from behind if you want a really nice high tech flat look.

Look to the power supply side of the unit. I’d put a buck converter on the power supply for two reasons. It allows you to set a voltage level that doesn’t dip which is the difficulty for some Pi power supplies especially if you are hanging relative current hogs like touchscreens off it. IT also means if you intend to keep mains out of the box ( Probably a good idea) then you might well want a beefy power supply for 12-18V and a somewhat more ruggedised connector. If this thing goes near stages it needs to be drummer proof.