Hm, I haven’t compiled zynthin before so it will take me some time to setup dev environment first.
Thinking more about this vertical right side pots option, this are more suitable for bigger screens such as one on v5. I already tried to scatch something in inkscape for 4.3 screen and it doesn’t look nice. So probably I will invest some time in trying to update the code.
Thanks anyway for guidance !!!
Hi @stojos,
It’s nice to see Succes Cases is still alive !
The file linked by @jofemodo is in Python (like most of Zynthian UI code), wich is interpreted. No compilation needed. A simple text editor is enough.
Yes. You are right. You need at less 5 inch display, and we had to “overflow” the display height in the V5 design, but it looks nice.
Regards,
I received the V5 and assembled in about 40 minutes total time. The instructions are perfect. Just have to wrap my head around it and learn its limitations so I can help expand the functionality…
Hello Zynhian user,
As I have been doing electronics since I was very young and I have 30 years of GNU/Linux behind me :), and although I bought an official Zynthian V4, I had fun making a new one. What a pleasure to make a Zynthian and I searched the forum to get there :)! My assembly uses a Mcp23017, four encoders, four push buttons. The green LED indicates the presence of mains, the red LED is present to indicate that the RPI is off, and the blue LED to indicate incoming Midi Din traffic. I only use the 3.3 volts from the RPi to power the whole system (No other power supply, no 5v from the RPI, the power supply in the photo is not used). In the end, my assembly will have three five-pin Midi Din sockets, like in the V4 (in, out, thrue). The Audio in/out/headphone card is an audio injector. The touch screen is an FNK0078. The optocouplers are H11L1. I’m thinking of installing analog galvanometers on the box to look nice. The potentiometers present on the audio card, as well as the audio input/output plugs and the headphone jack, will be remote on the case. I am thinking of powering the Raspberry directly through the GPIO, like this, I will install a switch on the box to cut off the source when the red LED is off. I will add a final potentiometer for adjusting the volume of the headphone jack (unless this is possible by software). When I have finished installing my prototype and have it all installed in a case, I will post photographs again.
Have a nice week end 
Congratulations! Interesting choice going 3.3v. Does this mean you won’t power usb sockets on the pi or perhaps use a powered USB hub for those devices that can live off USB 5v supplies? I end up using a fair bit of USB kit like mice and such so it can be useful.
Now comes the issue of what box does it go in? The screen forces the design more than anything else as these are the most interesting devices to mount that require the most surgery to put in a case of some sort. And then you have the metal or plastic dilemma. Metal is great but can limit WiFi if that is important. Remember to get the USB, ethernet and hdmi sockets as accessible as you can. Trying to extend these within a case takes up no end of space. And also consider access to the ssd. Changing these can be a real PAIN, especially if you are working with an untested screen to ensure the machine is alive. Sometimes whilst playing at this level the only way in is via the Ethernet port, so it pays to have it accessible.
We will, of course, be expecting a sonic contribution when we see how it all ends up!
